Almost on the road

Wednesday 4 January

BCF teachers and staff with MoE and RCSC officials
Photo by Dylan Haskin

Another whirlwind couple of days with all the ins and outs of our stay in Bhutan, logistics and paperwork being discussed as well as more meetings and presentations from the Ministry of Education and the Royal Civil Service Commission, our employer.  I think it is a reflection of the importance that the government places on the BCF program that so many high-level officials take time out of their day to talk with us.  I just hope I will live up to their expectations.  We were also treated to a talk about Buddhism, which was most informative.  For the meeting with the officials today, we were all dressed in our new finery, and very lovely we looked.

Breaking all the colour mix rules!

The logistics for packing and travelling are a wonderful example of the great organisational skills of the BCF staff.   Karma, with now very tatty list in hand, making sure that the larger items he undertook to purchase will end up at the right destinations, and directing the results of 16 teachers and one spouse appearing and reappearing with bags, boxes, buckets, tin trunks, mattresses and sundry other items for packing.  This is no mean feat given that we are spread pretty well across the country.  We will leave early on Thursday, and for some of us it will be Sunday when we reach our destination.

My list consists of:  one fridge, one gas stove, one gas cylinder, one water filter, water boiler (small urn), heater, rice cooker and pressure cooker – all in their original packaging, plus a tin trunk full of smaller items and 4 plastic buckets with lids, packed full of crockery, cutlery, kitchen utensils, cleaning products, toiletries, non-perishable foodstuffs to get us through the first few days, as well as items that might only be purchased in Thimpu, a couple of small rugs, broom, mop and umbrella and a mosquito net which is an awkward shape

Just some of the stuff for my house.....
(not the table, hotel would not like that!)

and will not fit into anything else.  Oh, and the 2 large bags I started with.  Some of the other teachers are going to schools/accommodation previously occupied by BCF teachers and have been able to buy much of this second hand from the previous teachers. 

Breakfast this morning was a delightful dish of spicy potato with delightfully light and fluffy Indian bread – maybe parathas??  A lovely change from eggs.  I have been particularly enjoying the momo - small dumplings with fillings, and the pakora – so much so that besan was an essential item on my shopping list. 

Getting ready to leave Thimpu

Monday 2 February

Just some of my shopping - bins and the box are fully packed!

Shopping is complete apart from those items apparently unobtainable in Thimpu (unfortunately, for me, this includes a sewing machine of transportable proportions) and some fresh food, which we will buy on the way to our placements.   Thank goodness for the suggestions made by Karma regarding where to shop and the extent to which the group has shared their own explorations and purchases, as well as the directions of local people – which sometimes have extended to accompanying me to find a shop that sells what I am looking for – via one or two shops that do not have those items.

We are eternally grateful to Karma for undertaking purchase of some of the larger items on our behalf, the fridge, stove, gas cylinders and water filters.  The rest has been carried up the hill in parcels tied with string, in backpacks and packed into the buckets that are such a necessary part of our household purchases, along with the lockable metal box for storing valuables in our houses.  My mattress was transported back tied onto the top of a taxi and my rugs threaded onto my broom handle and balanced against my shoulder – receiving many bemused looks.

I rather like the purple and red

How all our purchases are going to fit into/onto our transport is an interesting question. 

Judy met a parent and student from Kheni LSS today and they know I am coming and are excited about it.  I am excited about that.  I hope I live up to their anticipation. 

The morning orientation session about risk management and health reinforced a few of the realities of living in a third world country for a year as well as providing an overview of the public health system that is available to us should we need it.  I hope that both it and the 3Kg of pharmaceuticals and first aid supplies in my suitcase are largely unneeded.

Gho and Kira have been collected from the tailor and while we still have a session to practice getting dressed (this is not as silly as it sounds), many have already experimented and feel quite comfortable in the new clothes and for the females, rather glamorous.

A large hot chocolate and delicious slice of almond and pear tart for afternoon tea ruined my appetite for dinner and our biggest criticism of Cloud9’s cakes was that more, yummier looking cakes appeared after we had eaten.  It will be our last opportunity for such indulgences for quite some time.

Reflections on Thimpu

Sunday 1 February

Thimpu is such a city of contrasts.  Stunning architecture in the traditional style; opulent 5 star hotels under construction, shanties made of corrugated iron or even less; delightful little roads that twist and turn everywhere, filthy rivulets full of garbage.   Huge respect for authority and street vendors seated under signs indicating that such activities are not to happen.  Extensive produce markets with fresh food and tiny pan shops everywhere selling processed snacks, largely imported.  People carefully dressed in traditional national costume, a stunning setting amongst the hills, but litter everywhere.

There are huge numbers of “pan shops” – tiny holes in the wall selling a variety of junk snacks, some general goods and the ever-present doma.  How the people who own these shops manage to make a living defies the imagination.

Many other shops, and restaurants, are up narrow laneways or dingy staircases to upper floors in these multistory buildings.  Despite the access, some of these restaurants and shops are well worth the visit.

Hours are long for the shopkeepers.  The gentleman at the stationery – bookshop round the corner tells me he starts at 8am and works until 9:30pm, sometimes later, 7 days a week.  On the other hand, a shop or restaurant may close for a few days or longer for any number of reasons.

And lots of smiles.  Many people are happy to make eye contact and speak or acknowledge visitors. Children test their English then giggle between themselves - at my accent or at their own cleverness in being understood - who knows?