The beginning

Sunday 25 January

While I was extremely excited when advised in October 2014 that my application to teach in Bhutan  through the Bhutan Canada Foundation (BCF) was successful, and similarly when I was advised that my placement would be Kheni Lower Secondary School, the actual logistics of getting organised, packing up 2 houses and preparing them for rental and selling my car dominated my attention and took over from any thinking about the actualities of coming to live and teach in Bhutan for a year.

Even for the first couple of legs of the flight it did not seem particularly real.

The lovely staff from the Lilac Relax Residence were there to meet me at the specified gate after I had cleared immigration in Bangkok and I was welcomed back as a returning guest.

Dinner at a local restaurant on the main road (stir fried prawn and spring onion) brought back the feeling of being in Asia;  the record number counted on one motorbike:  4, plus large numbers of people hanging off the back of jeepneys.

With my body clock still on ADST, going to bed at 7:30pm to wake up at 3:45am seemed logical and worked well for me.

Checking in for the flight to Paro was a bit tedious with a little added confusion of changing check-in counters half way through, and the guys in front of me spent ages swopping bags around deciding which luggage to check in, but the lovely lady on the check in counter allowed my 35+Kg through with no question and noone asked about my hand luggage – of course, my backpack weighed only 5Kg.  And I was allowed to carry my overcoat:  my heavy fleece inside my raincoat weighing in at around 2.5Kg

I met fellow BCF teachers Alex and Cat at check in and again in the lounge (Air France - with some delicious camembert cheese on the buffet - my last for quite some time) and a little get to know you but also a serious concentration on getting some essential TAG communications completed.

I could definitely get used to the comforts of travelling business class.  A cloth for my table, very attentive flight attendants and orchids and quality hand cream in the toilet. To say nothing of plenty of elbow room.

Excitement rises as the plane gets to the point of taxiing and I start to read the airline magazine, Tashi Delek, and articles about remote minority groups and GNH and climate change.

A quick conversation with the flight hostess and a close look at her Kira (traditional skirt) confirms that I am not too far off track with my interpretation of the tailored design and her Taego (jacket) has a facing of different fabric on collar and cuffs as opposed to her wearing a Wonju (blouse) under it.  The front vertical band of her Taego is tailored to sit asymmetrically – it’s a very smart look.

In flight catering provides a serious reintroduction to Bhutanese meal sizes with breakfast consisting of omelette with chicken sausage thingy and spicy tomato sauce, yogurt, fruit, coffee, juice, cheese and crackers, dessert of some description, and an optional bread roll!

The delightful male flight attendant from Lhuentse thought he recognised me from my previous trip in 2013 and was excited that I am returning to Bhutan and going to the east to teach, as was another Bhutanese gentleman I spoke with in the check in queue.  This excitement about and appreciation of what I am about to do is rather lovely.

The boarding of the ex minister for education in Gaya reminded me of the esteem in which such persons are held.  Particular attentions from the in-flight crew including his coffee cup being provided with a saucer and the chief steward stirring his coffee while chatting with him. 

Shortly after leaving Gaya, we were treated to an absolutely awesome view of the Himalayas, including Mt Everest.  Unfortunately I was on the wrong side of the plane to get the best of the view, but I was invited to the spare seat across the aisle for a closer look by the esteemed ex-minister.  

Arrival at Paro airport reminded me of the smell of massed Bhutanese humanity – that pervading smell of doma, the betel nut and lime chewing habit of so many.  Karma met us as expected; a delightful man, along with Adam who had just flown in from elsewhere.  This turned out to be the first of many helpful encounters with Karma.

Paro town

Settling into a shared small room for a single night provided some challenges with suitcase space, but the hotel did have wifi and excellent views of the Paro Valley.  Lunch in town was a traditional Bhutanese lunch followed by the option to walk in town, visit a temporary museum (museum is still under renovation) or return to the hotel – the latter option appealed and some time sitting in the sun, soaking up the view, followed by a snooze before dinner, again in town, seemed in order.  Meals have not got smaller since I was here last.

Paro Valley

The hotel, Gangtey Palace, is the ex residence of the prime minister and a very traditional building. While there we were treated to observations of workmen refreshing the fabulous painted decorations as well as a visit to the altar room (no photos permitted) with some interpretation of the murals and statues.

Sunday morning breakfast was followed by a fascinating visit to the produce market with some attempts at communication with a lady from Laya about her conical hat and another lady about the quality of her chilli powder!  

A trip to the ruined fortress, Drukgyel Dzong, built to commemorate the victory over Tibetan invaders (with its view of the stunning Jholmari) and the beautiful Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in Bhutan - dating from the 7th century, with its eternal orange trees, completed the morning's activities.

At lunch back at the hotel we met Nancy Strickland, chairperson of BCF and in the afternoon were transferred to Thimpu, with some settling in and a walk before more settling in and a quick dinner with Cat at the nearby Indian restaurant. 

Tuesday 26 January

Ready for formalities in my national dress

Monday and Tuesday proved to be a very full couple of days.  The first half of the orientation on Monday was general introductions and forms!  I believe we have signed ourselves to 24/7 dedication to the cause for the next 12 months!  As meetings with officials from the Ministry of Education were scheduled, my home made interpretation of national dress received its first airing and some positive comments. 

Money and photographs were collected by Kharma for duty stamps for formal documents, assorted visas and permits.  Kharma  had previously collected our US currency to take off for exchange.  There were many jokes about his not leaving the country and his new silk gho.

After lunch with the MoE officials, Kharma took us on a whirlwind tour of Thimpu, pointing out where to buy what – phones, kira and gho, large electrical appliances, small household goods, mattresses, (and a sewing machine!)  It seems that the shop where I might be able to buy an electric sewing machine is closed until later in the week.  This was followed by a trip to the hospital for our medicals. 

Queuing to see the doctor between 2 doma chewing locals reminded me how much I do not enjoy the scent of it!

Textiles for taego, kira, wonju, taego and kira

Walking back to the hotel with Rebecca, we diverted via the National Memorial Chorten to circumambulate 3 times.  A further diversion by myself resulted in the purchase of a piece of violet taego fabric that will go well with my current purple kira and the aubergine wonju I am making. This proved to be the first of several such purchases!

A small amount of free time allowed me to investigate a dropbox-related email from Kylie to find that for a going-away present she had compiled a small but thoughtful library of eBooks for me. While some are too large to download, I have managed to download many and they will provide much enjoyment as well as useful resources through the year.  Downloading a kindle app for the ipad in order to be able to access some of these files seemed a bit of a contradiction, but after some fiddling around to establish/re-establish an Amazon identity (there has to be an opportunity for some jokes there) I have a dozen or so books to read in that app.

Dinner at the restaurant (Ama's?) by the karaoke bar was delicious but I left early and many of the younger group continued on with a reportedly fun karaoke until late.  Some definitely showed the effects of it the next morning.  

Kharma had requested that, over dinner, we identify who wanted to purchase the larger items:  water filters, gas stoves etc and fridges.  Given that Rebecca who has lived and taught here before strongly recommends a fridge, I shall.  I was suspecting that it might be a good idea anyway.

Tuesday’s orientation to the school system and GNH with Madam Tshering and Madam Chimi was most useful.  Tshering is very open and honest and a delightful person.  

I was fascinated that money was collected to buy the sim cards for the mobile phones. I was concerned about the size of the card, but was advised that it would be cut down, and eventually witnessed this with a clever cutter that effectively punched a large card to a smaller size.  I needed assistance from a shop to actually get into the sim drawer of the phone, but this was easily obtained.

The clock tower in Thimpu

I seem to manage to miss getting together with others to do some of our chores so ended up walking to the post office alone and changing some travellers’ cheques.  There are obviously different rules in Thimpu to places where I have previously exchanged money – I was asked for a copy of my passport, but the staff made one a copy anyway when I could not produce one.

The textile shop was just on the verge of closing for lunch when I arrived at 2pm, as arranged with Kharma, but after a quick call to Kharma they stayed open for half of the group to choose their national dress.  I chose a “ready made” Kira but it only had ties, so it has been left with the tailor for darts and hooks etc., along with a red brocade taego and purple wonju (when I am old I shall wear purple, with a red hat that does not go and does not suit me....).  I had talked with Meena from the BCF office about how warm the kira might or might not be in summer and identified that she wears silk/cotton – raw silk woven from the threads of a silkworm that eats the leaves of the castor oil tree rather than the mulberry, and she was kind enough to take me to a shop that sells only Bhutanese woven textile.  They are divine!  Everyone is going to look amazing when our orders for Kira and Gho come back from the tailor.  Already those who have a national dress outfit are looking fantastic!

Dinner at Karma café was fish and chips with a yummy hot chocolate in something the size of a small soup bowl.

Wednesday 27 January

Teachers Madam Tshering and Madam Chimi (I will be Madam Lynne when I start to teach) took us through the curriculum and teaching, primarily with a focus on English, but also with examples from Science and an opportunity to look at the text books for English, Maths and Science.

I wish I could be certain that I am teaching maths to grades 6-8 and I could really start to get my head around planning, however, there is that degree of uncertainty….

We were required to undergo fingerprinting and photographing in the afternoon for our ID cards and while others went for a soccer match with some locals Sarah and I went shopping for household appliances.  Kharma is organising ordering and deliver of fridge, stove, gas cylinder and water filter, I brought rice and curry cookers, pressure cooker and saucepan, water boiler and some small utensils.  Celebrated with a G&T and Cadbury chocolate (made in India!)

Choosing a mattresses will be interesting - I identified that the comfortable one I would like is not only larger than I probably should buy but about 4 times the price!  Might need to look around a bit.

Trying to keep up with commitments at home is proving interesting.  Internet connection is not always good and  there are frustrations with TAG internet banking with Mystate – we cannot approve transactions.  What a nuisance.

Its still a bit hard to absorb the reality of being here for a year, and I still don’t know exactly what my accommodation will be.  Meena tells me that it may be a new building, if it is finished, but one of the teachers is finding something suitable as the principal is undertaking professional development away from the village.  Rebecca, who has spent 2 years teaching in Bhutan previously (and was teaching in Phongmey when I visited Sakten Wildlife Park-the habitat of the Migoi (Yeti) in 2013) also tells me that the road from Trashigang to Trashiyangtse, my main route to a town of any size, is often closed due to construction work on a hydro electric  project.  That will make getting to Trashiyangtse for regular shopping and internet more interesting.

I am also told that wireless internet is not currently available in Kheni.

Conversations with both Madam Chimi and Madam Tsering about my home made national costume have resulted in encouragement for me to take a sewing club at school.  Seems like it could be the go!