Reflections on Thimpu

Sunday 1 February

Thimpu is such a city of contrasts.  Stunning architecture in the traditional style; opulent 5 star hotels under construction, shanties made of corrugated iron or even less; delightful little roads that twist and turn everywhere, filthy rivulets full of garbage.   Huge respect for authority and street vendors seated under signs indicating that such activities are not to happen.  Extensive produce markets with fresh food and tiny pan shops everywhere selling processed snacks, largely imported.  People carefully dressed in traditional national costume, a stunning setting amongst the hills, but litter everywhere.

There are huge numbers of “pan shops” – tiny holes in the wall selling a variety of junk snacks, some general goods and the ever-present doma.  How the people who own these shops manage to make a living defies the imagination.

Many other shops, and restaurants, are up narrow laneways or dingy staircases to upper floors in these multistory buildings.  Despite the access, some of these restaurants and shops are well worth the visit.

Hours are long for the shopkeepers.  The gentleman at the stationery – bookshop round the corner tells me he starts at 8am and works until 9:30pm, sometimes later, 7 days a week.  On the other hand, a shop or restaurant may close for a few days or longer for any number of reasons.

And lots of smiles.  Many people are happy to make eye contact and speak or acknowledge visitors. Children test their English then giggle between themselves - at my accent or at their own cleverness in being understood - who knows?